Westport, Co. Mayo
William Makepeace Thackeray: "The most beautiful view I ever saw in the world."
We were chatting one day
with the owner of a hotel in Ennis that Westport in Co. Mayo
was a good place to visit. He told us it was a lovely town
that had a very good reputation and had won an award for being
the "most liveable town in Ireland". So we decided to go see
for ourselves.
This page written by Karin
We discovered the early
morning train would get us there in four hours with only two
changes. So we decided to make it an overnighter so that
we could take our time and truly enjoy the town.
Train stations in Ireland
are very convenient to the center of town;
Westport was no exception. After a short walk we were
situated in our B&B, which was
lovely! An old Georgian house situated on a tree lined
street known as The Mall. The street was divided by the
River Carrowbeg. I felt for a moment, like I was in Paris!
Anxious to get out and use the afternoon for sightseeing, we ate a quick lunch and then went for a walk to the famous Westport House. We chose the "back entry" forest walk as opposed to the Main Entrance that cars use. Westport House was built in 1730 on the foundations of a 15th century castle belonging to the O'Malley clan. This castle was home to the famous Pirate Queen whose name was Grainne (Grace) O'Malley. The owners of the house today are direct descendants of Grainne.
Westport House encompasses 480 acres of
which most of it has been turned into a "Pirate Adventure Park"
for the young and old alike. The house is also open to the
public for viewing. A small lake behind Westport House has swan
boats for those who enjoy quiet paddling amongst the lily pads!
Our walk took us out of the park and down to
the Quay. The quay used to be very busy with commercial shipping,
however today it is a quiet village made up of holiday homes and a
few restaurants and pubs. A museum called "The Heritage
Center" is located there as well. It is the entrance to Clew Bay,
which is said to have an island for every day of the year! And
them some! We enjoyed just sitting here eating ice cream cones
while gazing at the sailboats anchored nearby.
Westport has two squares of
note. One has an old clock tower in it; the other has an
unusual statue of St. Patrick. Normally any statues or
pictures of him are of an older man with long white beard
wearing Bishop clothing; this is of Patrick as a young Roman
boy. We forget that he came here as a captive slave from
Roman England. He returned years later as a Christian
bringing Christianity to Ireland. (And since I have
personally never seen a snake here in Ireland, I also must
believe the folklore that claims St. Patrick got rid of them!)
We had done a bit of
research before going to Westport and discovered that there was
a musical show called "The Legend of Grainne O'Malley" playing
at the Westport Hotel. So after a lovely dinner we took in
the show. It was done entirely in dance and music with
some well-known stars. That really helped us to understand
the story of the Pirate Queen with her adventures and
mis-adventures.
Before coming to Westport I was wondering what exactly made it such a "liveable" town. I had read that it was laid out in the late 1700's in a grid system. Well, that definitely made getting around easier (as opposed to Ennis that still has a medieval street layout.) But it is really much more than that. Perhaps it is these words from the Best Place to Live Award given by the Irish Times - "Westport has a good quality of life based on its spirit and cooperation of its citizens".
Even in 1842, when William Makepeace Thackeray visited Westport, it was a town to admire - "The most beautiful view I ever saw in the World. It forms an event in one's life to have seen that place so beautiful that is it, and so unlike other beauties that I know of. Were such beauties lying on English shores it would be a World's wonder perhaps, if it were on the Mediterranean or Baltic, English travellers would flock to it by hundreds, why not come and see it in Ireland."